It’s not a doughnut, but it’s close. The brioche at St Honoré is small, doughy and filled with custard – just like a doughnut.
St Honoré is a popular bakery with the world’s worst website.
I worked in that very building many years ago, in the ad agency Leo Burnett. Fun times, and really opened my eyes to the shameful reality of advertising agencies and the people who worked in them. I met some great people there, but I also met some people I’d rather forget. Things have changed… a bit.
Back to the brioche. It’s really nice.
I got mine early in the morning and it was still warm.
The dough of a brioche is distinct from your typical doughnut, which gives it a unique flavour and texture. It’s not as airy as an Italian panettone. It has a crusty shell and a soft interior. The light dusting of icing sugar helps the sweetness.
The custard is not too thick and not too thin. It is a bit lumpy in a deliberate way, and I don’t mind that one little bit. It is like a home-made custard.
The only thing was that it has a strange aftertaste. A bit savoury. I don’t think it is meant to be there. Possibly they cook the brioche in the same oven as something else, and the flavour infuses with the brioche. Not sure.
They have another brioche but I don’t know what’s in it – I didn’t understand the person who served me, she is a low talker.